Wajir, Northern Frontier’s last colonial outpost

By Boniface Ongeri

It was one of the former Northern Frontier District’s last outposts.

Almost 50 years after independence Wajir still remains a far-flung semi desert outback that has never shed off its badhia (rural, in Somali language) tag.

The town was started in early 1900s as a frontier for then British East Africa Protectorate.

Many have never been to Wajir save for hordes of aid workers who flock in to deliver and over see aid distribution.

Relief teams swarm this sun soaked town in chattered planes and four-wheel drive vehicles as they tour the interior to serve needy residents.

Far back in time beyond the daub huts that act as landmarks for the town, Wajir was once a battlefield!

Five decades ago, the town was embroiled in the thick of World War II.

Today, trenches, bunkers, a military air base, decoys and gun turrets still stand at various spots in the outskirts, still stout despite the vagaries of weather.

However, the structures have been neglected and stand desolate despite their rich history.

War bunkers

Fort El Wak is now used as a police station while the Fort Wajir is the local prison. It is said no prisoner has ever escaped from its high walls.

The derelict war bunkers, forts, decoys, underground tunnels and cells in Wajir have withstood the baking sun to remain as historic monuments.

The town boasts only one single storied building—the Wajir Plaza, which rises above the tiny town of about 16km2 with one street.

Three main hotels that can pass for small lodgings in major towns mean everything for a visitor in need of accommodation.

What is more, the lodgings could easily pass for ‘dormitories’ as they are halls with up to ten beds.

Here one does not book a room for the night but a bed in the common hall with other lodgers.

Dinner in the local eateries are often served spaghetti, rice or ugali with camel stew, which would also be served for breakfast and lunch.

Commercial pubs were banned about ten years ago following spirited opposition from religious leaders.

The Government, however, operates three clubs that sell Armed Forces Canteen Organization (AFCO) alcoholic drinks and are the most popular evening spots with visitors.

Residents, especially men, spend time in the evenings outside the streets or their houses chewing miraa (khat). Others watch foreign news or Premier League soccer in small halls with satellite televisions.

They animatedly debate world issues, ranging from Somalia and Middle East to US politics as they while away the evenings and sleep late.

Residents boast Wajir could be the most secure town in the country with negligible petty crimes recorded yearly.

Wajir DC Henry Ochako concurs, saying the town is very secure.

"Residents can sleep outside without worrying of attacks, the town has no major incidents of crime," he says.

But the town reports crimes of its own kind, especially those related to clan attacks.

Cash flow

The town’s main economic activities are livestock and miraa trade. It also relies heavily on imports from Somalia.

Cash flow between miraa traders and businessmen dealing with Somali imports is fast and fluid. Traders who exchange money all day keep at least six forex bureaus busy.

Despite the upgrading of the former Wajir military airport to an international airport three years ago, the facility is yet to receive its first regional or international flight.

Real estate industry largely remains untapped. However, there is a scramble for land as residents who once considered the land as waste, move to fence off plots in anticipation of a real estate boom the international airport could offer.

Unique toilets

‘Bucket’ toilets elevated from the ground are a common feature of the town. Pit latrines are almost impossible to dig due to the hard rock where Wajir stands.

Collecting the buckets daily is the main task of the local council.

Infrastructure too is poor and during rainy seasons Wajir is cut off from its neighbours, Mandera and Garissa, by impassable roads.

Burder Ward Councillor Ibrahim Abukar Omar says poor infrastructure stagnates the town’s growth.

"If the Government could tarmac the roads, as we have been promised many times, business would be easier.

He adds: "We also need a modern sewerage system. The council is overwhelmed by growing population, we can’t collect the toilet buckets effectively."

Shebe Mohamed, a businessman says the potential of the town is growing especially after land value increased.

"No one valued land then for development then other than for grazing. Now everyone is fighting for every available space with up to five people claiming the same parcel of land," he says.

Many houses have been converted to lodges or hired out to non-governmental organisations as offices.

There are neither industries in Wajir nor higher learning institutions forcing many to head to Garissa. The heat here is sweltering with temperatures reaching 40 degrees Celsius.