One of the best things you can do for your hair, whether natural or chemically treated, is to wear a protective style. Braids, twists, and faux locs are excellent for retaining length and minimising daily manipulation, especially for 4C hair. However, this phase is often misunderstood as a “braid it and forget it” solution.
Hydration
The tightly coiled structure of 4C hair makes it difficult for natural scalp oils to travel down the hair shaft, leading to chronic dryness. This dryness can become even more pronounced when the hair is tightly bound in a protective style.
What to do:
Targeted moisturising: Use a lightweight liquid moisturiser or a blend of water and a hydrating leave-in conditioner. Apply this directly to the length of your exposed braids or twists and to the scalp every two to three days.
Oil sealants: Follow moisturising with a light oil such as jojoba or grapeseed oil to seal in hydration. Concentrate on the mid-lengths and ends, where the hair is oldest and most prone to breakage. Avoid excessive oiling, as this can lead to product build-up.
Scalp Health and Cleansing
A common mistake many people make is neglecting the scalp while wearing protective styles. Build-up from products and natural sebum can cause itching, inflammation and, over time, potential hair loss if follicles become blocked.
What to do:
Diluted cleansing: Instead of a harsh, full wash, use a diluted clarifying shampoo or an apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse. Apply it with an applicator bottle directly to the scalp between the parts.
Gentle scrubbing: Use clean fingertips, not nails, to gently massage the scalp and loosen build-up at the roots. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
Drying protocol: Drying is essential. Never leave a protective style damp, as this can encourage mould and mildew. Gently squeeze out excess water using a microfibre towel or soft fabric towel without rubbing. Follow with a hooded dryer or a blow dryer on a cool setting until the roots are completely dry.
Night-Time Protection and Style Longevity
The wrong pillowcase or scarf can create friction, leading to frizz, fraying and premature ageing of the style. Always protect your hair at night with a silk or satin bonnet, or sleep on a silk pillowcase. Cotton strips moisture from the hair and increases friction, which weakens the hair shaft and disrupts the curl pattern. Avoid direct contact with cotton bedding where possible.
Finally, resist the temptation to keep a protective style for longer than eight weeks. Beyond this point, excessive new growth can lead to matting, tangling and breakage during removal. Allow your hair to rest between styles, and follow each takedown with a deep-conditioning treatment to restore moisture and strength.
