Hans
Mombasa may be known for the sailors looking for twilight girls, but you will also find little gems only if you take time to look. I often entertain local and foreign visitors and their concerns are usually similar — where to stay, play, dine and, especially, where to go for fun.
One morning, a few Kenyan friends arrived in Mombasa. Hungry and fatigued from the journey, I drove them to one of my favorite joints for breakfast — The Golden Crust — an exotic hot bread shop at Ratna Square in Nyali.
It is run by an ever-smiling German lady called Hermine who is assisted by very friendly staff. The shop serves excellent Kenyan coffee, sweet cakes — like the Schwarzwaelder Kirschtorte (black forest), Kaese Kuchen (cheesecake), cream cakes — various breads and cookies, all home-made and fresh! My friends had some chicken sandwiches that left them licking their fingers.
Kongowea market
We then went shopping at the Kongowea mitumba market next door. I hear it is cheaper than many places in Nairobi, including Gikomba.
The alleys are not really clean, but even foreign tourists who I have chaperoned before love its authentic African and friendly ambiance.
Obviously, the greatest fun is finding original Calvin Klein or Diesel jeans and shirts, which sell for about Sh400, or labeled shoes and boots for Sh1,500. The shilling truly stretches far here!
Sometimes I am the only white person wandering around but nobody bothers with me. This makes me feel safe and at home. About an hour later, we went searching for accommodation.
Old Town
For budget travellers, Castle Royal Hotel is good value for money. It costs Sh3,500 for a single room per night.
I like the Tamarind Village Apartments in Nyali. They are very spacious with a huge sitting room, kitchen, and en-suite de-luxe bathroom.
Some of the bedrooms have a magical view of Mombasa’s Old Town while others open up to the sea. It comes at a hefty price though — Sh9,500 — but considering the facilities, it is worth it.
After an afternoon siesta, we visited Fort Jesus and the Old Town where we felt history all around us. We walked past the dilapidated buildings dating hundreds of years back.
There are also numerous nice small shops selling unique traditional souvenirs.
The walk ended on Digo Road with its old market and narrow streets where Somali businessmen sell everything and anything. Before long it was evening and we had to get ready for the vibrant nightlife.
Hans adventures in Mombasa continue next week.
