Catching up with Malindi's lost glory

I was “dying to visit Malindi’s best such as the Vasco da Gama Pillar, the Malindi pier as I get to inhale the early morning breeze and watch tens of fishermen making it back to the beach after a night out fishing. 

My Tuk-tuk drive for the day arrives at 8.30. We are set for the day’s tour of Malindi but when I tell Suleiman that I was here long before Covid-19, he quickly points out that so much has changed. 

“The charm of the quaint tourist attraction is now lost and for the discerning traveller, Malindi seems to have lost its glory. Suleiman notices my silence as I take in what this means for my visit, and quickly points out that all is not lost and the effects of Covid-19 “that crushed Malindi” are now waning away and the tourist town is slowly picking up. 

Thirty-five minutes later, we are driving through the town centre, and I can now visualise what Suleiman meant. There seems to be “no life” and the bustling town that I once experienced is no longer a 24-hour economy. The town is dead asleep. 

After exploring the outskirts where beach life was once fun, I discover that most of the beaches are now deserted, and hospitality joints that were once the fame of Malindi have almost no visitors and no activities. Not even the locals frequent them and the historical gems of Malindi, are no longer frequented by crowds of enthusiastic travellers. 

“Most investors have left Malindi, with key investors like the Germans, and Italians taking their business elsewhere like Nairobi and Mombasa, while others have opted to go home,” says Suleiman.

He jokingly points out that the ones that stuck around are those die-hards that were born and bred in Malindi, which they call home. Indeed, the local Germans and Italians have adopted the local language and coastal culture. 

The town, which was not so long ago the place where the hotel industry was a great attraction with so many popular attraction spots is no more. Many spots that had long periods of advance bookings are struggling to stay afloat, while others have since closed down.

Even those that seem to have stood the test of time as Malindi struggles to return to its former glory, still look run down. 

I remembered that the last time I was here I visited the Malindi Falconry; I was so excited that I promised myself that I would do a repeat visit – to have some fun with the Mzee Kobe the tortoise (if he was still alive), and the eagles as I commanded them to fly out and back to my hand. 

I ask Suleiman if the Falconry still operates, and he tells me that though it had also experienced Covid-19 challenges it was still operational. The Falconry is located at the heart of the town.

At the reception, we find Falconer, Kahindi Kitsao, in charge of the Falconry.

The Falconry is known as the Falconry of Kenya Greif Vogel Park and Eagle Park. The establishment hosts diverse species of animals, including a star tortoise, which is now 128 years old. He seems to be “ageing gracefully”.