A trip to South Coast gives a visitor an opportunity to experience the broad expanse of pure white beach, and as ALLAN OLINGO recently found out, the inviting ocean and the exotic world of holidaying in a rented villa is just the best way to relax
Leaving Nairobi on a chilly Friday morning, I was upbeat about the prospects of spending a three-day holiday unwinding in one of Kenya’s pristine beaches. As the Air Kenya plane taxied away, my fear of flight constantly pricked me but I decided to turn a blind eye.
Landing at Ukunda Airstrip slightly an hour later, the weather was different. It was sunny and hot, just the perfect getaway compared to the crappy weather in Nairobi.
We drove straight to Bahari Dhow Beach Villas, where I booked in to their three bed roomed villa. Now the heavens gate had opened itself to me.
Bahari Dhow comprises of 24 fully furnished self contained, double storey villas, each with three large ensuite bedrooms, a fully-equipped kitchen, dining and living room. As I checked in I realised that my bedroomed faced the beach and the scenery was breathtaking. This is what I needed; an escape from the bustling rough life of the newsroom to this world of its own.
Swahili inspired
Inspired by the Swahili architecture, Bahari Dhow Villas are elegant and imposing. The three pools each at the villas’ entrance remind one of the missions to the Coast — holiday. The beauty of holidaying on a rented villa is that you live like you would in your house. That was my excitement.
Too tired to start making my own lunch, I opted for a meal of grilled chicken with lettuce and mashed potatoes from the in-house African Oasis Beach Bar and Restaurant. That afternoon, I decided to let go and swim in the ocean even though the tides were now getting stronger.
It was then time to explore the nightlife of Diani. With a little enquiry from Nancy, the Bahari Dhow manager, I settled for Forty Thieves, that was three minutes drive away. The place was beaming with foreigners and lots of ‘Nairobians’ whom I later learnt were advocates on a convention in South Coast. After a few drink, I retired for the night.
The sun rises quite early in the Coast so, the cool bright morning presents a beautiful opportunity for a beach walk. There is no better moment to collect one’s thoughts than when taking an early morning walk or jog along the beach. I later drove to Nakumatt Diani and did my shopping for the house. I was now determined to cook for my self and enjoy the ‘home away from home’ experience of renting a villa.
I had made arrangements to visit Wasini and Shimoni on Sunday and as I woke up the following morning, just like a toddler on their first day at school, I was filled with excitement. This was, however, cut short when it started raining. After a few phone calls, I decided that I still had to continue with the schedule.
Slavery caves
As we left for Wasini, I couldn’t help but think of snorkelling and the dolphins. They indeed uplifted my spirit though the pounding rains were a cause to worry.
The Shimoni caves are located in a small sleepy village that is among the poorest villages in the South Coast. The caves are a fascinating historical site, which was previously used as Kaya shrines and hiding places for the Digo.
It is claimed that the Arabs used the caves as slaves’ holding areas pending the arrival of ship to transfer them to the famous slave market in Zanzibar, and for onward shipment to Arabia. We did not manage to get to these caves because of the rain and our tight schedule.
It was a rainy day all the way from the hotel as we drove towards Shimoni. Anyway, the rain cleared up later and while at sea, the trip was a nice sight seeing.
Unfortunately, the sea was rough so, no one was allowed to snorkel and the dolphins too, were not any close. It was a disappointment but I promised myself that this would be in my ‘to-do’ list on my next excursion. My greatest disappointment came when I realised I had carried an empty battery and the camera could not power. Frustration was written in the face, as I now had to squeeze the amazing picturesque using my phone! What a waste!
Wasini Island is a jewel of the South Coast. In my first time visit, one of the guides promised me heaven and indeed he delivered. Then as a university student on a trip, he told us that it’s only in Wasini where they zero graze crabs and have wild cows! Being naïve, I believed him and walked to the island in search of these wild cows but found none.
If the tides are a bit high and the water level permitting, then a small boat will ferry you from the dhow to Wasini island, otherwise if sea level is too low then you may have to walk from the dhow to the Island.
Wasini Island is well known for its cultural village. The ancient Swahili ruins, the coral gardens, a landscape of exposed coral reefs, the mangrove forests and ancient tombs of the slave masters of the 18th and 19th century makes this island a beautiful spectacle for one to see.
Hospitable locals
We walked around the crab rearing areas, visited curio shops, old historical buildings, and a site of some huge stones in the back. The children are curious and once you start engaging them, they will amaze you with the knowledge of this place.
Tired and drained, we took the dhow back to Shimoni en route back to Bahari Dhow Villas. As we drove back I couldn’t help but think of the calm South Coast and its beautiful sea breezes that keep you refreshed and relaxed.
The next morning, I was crestfallen, because I had to catch my flight back to Nairobi, yet I had just started to enjoy my stay at South Coast. How I envied those who lived here. I promised myself to come back next time, with a bigger group and most definitely for a longer stay.
