Kenya’s mountain country offers a delightful paradise

Every other month I get to share with readers the exciting sights and sounds of Magical Kenya. However, Kenya’s magic is un-enjoyable unless one disengages from Nairobi’s gutter press and its high voltage politics. In its stead one must engage their adventure gene. In that adventure spirit, this week I took a trip to the Mountain circuit, which includes my birth-county, kept my eyes open and was not disappointed. In years past, once you got onto Murang’a Road, you met no upmarket establishment, until the generally sleepy Blue Posts Hotel. A little digression; I went to school in Thika High and I have heartwarming memories of Blue Posts.

Nowadays, the road between Thika and Nyeri is dotted with hospitality outfits starting with the scenic “Sagana Getaway” in Muran’ga County; a new picturesque hotel just before the River Sagana bridge. If you are a bird watcher, this place is a must-stop. I am told some of the birds in this area exist nowhere else in the world.

Once you pass Sagana the route through Muran’ga, Kirinyaga and Nyeri counties, spoils you for choice. The area boasts of numerous “resorts”, though I noted that many are little more than nyama choma “jam rescues”.

Nyeri, however, houses a number of excellent establishments. The Serena Hotel has Mountain Lodge. Chaka Ranch is a must-stop especially for the young and young at heart. Further down, one has the choice of the various Tree hotels, including the famous Treetops where a young lady once walked up a Princess and came down a Queen.

This time I chose to try the Ark, which I have never been to since my impressions of Tree hotels were defined by Treetops and I always thought the Ark was just a poorer cousin. I was humbled. Our welcome party, right at the gate, was a deceptively adorable pack of hyena cubs. Five minutes later, wonder of wonders; Mr Leopard right in our path! Then to the hotel, which has been redone by the Madhvani family to five-star status. There we met the largest herd of elephants I have ever seen. They must been at least 300 of them at the hotel’s salt lick!

Once they left, an equally large herd of buffaloes took over, which was the first time I noted major differences between female and male buffaloes! A ride into the park is a must savour.

If you can spare the whole day, not only will you get to see some of the most beautiful forest water-falls, but also the caves where Mau Mau generals operated from during the war. The amount of wildlife, mainly buffaloes, antelopes and elephants are staggering. Sadly I am told few locals ever get to enjoy these sights.

From the Ark we got off to the Aberdare Country Club. This too has been renovated and now also specialises in health treatments, including a one-week “health holiday” for those desiring to trim their kilos. Pricey, but looked interesting.

Next time I will succumb to temptation. After Nyeri it was off to beautiful Nanyuki a town unlike any in Kenya. Not only does it host the most diverse nationalities and ethnicities outside of Nairobi and Mombasa but it also has some amazing eateries. Even Le-Rustique has opened an outlet just outside the town. Their mushroom steak will definitely take me back to Nanyuki!

A visit to the Mountain is not complete without a night at the world famous Fairmont Mt Kenya Safari Club through which the Equator runs. Despite the slump in tourism, this hotel was very busy with an unusual number of Asian tourists.

Nothing relaxed the nerves more than their bonfire and the talented one-man guitar’s rendition of John Denver’s “country roads” mixed with lots of Kenny Rogers. The view of Mt Kenya from this hotel is spectacular. It was hard to leave.

On the way back we consoled ourselves with some “nyama fry” at the newly-opened Sahara West Park in Ruaka. You don’t know meat if you haven’t been there. After a lovely week in my neighbourhood, it was great to be back to Nairobi, which sadly, hadn’t reformed since we left! I challenge you to outdo me in experiencing this beautiful country.